KUNUNURRA

KUNUNURRA AND SURROUNDS

The scenery out of Halls Creek started to change within a few kilometres of the town.  The ranges became more rugged but, once again we had to deal with a headwind.  Our first night out we had a roadside stop, along with about 10 other vans, just near the turnoff into the Bungle Bungles.  Several people left their vans here to drive the 53klm into the Bungle Visitors Centre and then another 50klm to see the gorges.  The first 53klm we were told would take 2 ½ hrs.  The road is apparently very rough.  We didn’t go as we planned to fly in from Kununurra.  Travelled through more beautiful country the next day.  It was like a breath of fresh air compared to the previous weeks. It was this section of road we first encountered road trains with FOUR wagons in tow.  Hell of a thing to have to pass or have pass you.  They work from a couple of mine sites about half way between here and the Bungles. Stopped overnight at a great rest area at the intersection of the Kununurra-Wyndham Roads.  We were able to have a campfire this night (very enjoyable after so long) because we managed to find a dead log in the grass.  Arrived in Kununurra the next day and set up in the van park, backing on to Lake Kununurra.  What a view!!  This spot is so serene, we plan to be here at least two weeks as there is a lot to do from here, and what better spot to have as a base.  The second afternoon here we were having the mandatory “Happy Hour” when the sound of bagpipes came drifting through the air.  There, by the lakeside, was a bloke enjoying himself and giving such joy to everyone else by playing on the pipes.  It was great, and the setting was just perfect. After a couple of days of being couch potatoes we headed off early one morning to do a trip down the Gibb River Road to Emma Gorge and El Questro station.  The road was dreadful in places, and in others it was bitumen. The ranges and escarpments along this road were lovely.  Did the walk into Emma Gorge - supposed to be Moderate in rating, but turned out to be a bit more than that.  Quite a challenge for one of us.  Got some great photos to share. Off again towards El Questro, passing some hot springs called Zebedee Springs.  They closed at 12noon so we had a very quick walk in but managed to film the  place.  Lots of people soaking in the warm spring water.  Would have loved a dip, but there wasn’t enough time. Off again, crossing the Pentecost River into the El Questro holiday park resort.  A great spot, but rather expensive.  The river behind the shops made a great swimming pool. We had to partake of coffee and cake here, before heading out to go to Wyndham. I’m glad Des is doing the full length of the Gibb River Road by himself at some time in the future.  The bit this end was enough for me.  I’m afraid scenery doesn’t make up for shaking one’s kidneys loose.  Half way up to Wyndham a road takes you to a place in the hills called “The Grotto” where water in the wet season, rushes off the land into a hole supposed to be 300mtrs deep. Man made steps go to the bottom, but we didn’t go there.  Wyndham is a port and the original settlement in this area.  The Argyle Dam and construction of Kununurra has made it a quiet sleepy town where the port is the only real activity.  We went to the Five Rivers lookout where 5 major rivers from various directions enter the ocean at Wyndham.  It was very smoky and spoiled the view.  We were told to have barra’n’chips in Wyndham.  It was well worth waiting for.  Got back to Kununurra about 6.15pm - a big day.  Next day was our bus trip to Lake Argyle and the sunset cruise on Lake Kununurra.  Once again the scenery to Lake Argyle was awesome.  We called into a pioneer homestead called Durack station which in the early days was a grand old home.  This would have been drowned by Lake Argyle, but was painstakingly dismantled piece by piece, labelled, and reassembled at its present site above the water level of the dam. Next stop was the Lake Argyle shops.  The owners have recently installed an infinity pool near the cliff edge.  It was truly beautiful.  Had to take the photos to share.  The lookout above the dam wall gave us the first impressions of just how large this lake really is.  Boats moored in the backwater looked like matchbox toys.  Lake Argyle is 21 times the size of Sydney Harbour and during the wet season of 2011 it reached a capacity of 42 times Sydney Harbour.   The creation of this lake has been one of the success stories of northern WA.  The small hydro power station below the dam wall supplies power to all of Kununurra, Wyndham and 80% of the Argyle Diamond Mines use.  Next, on board our boat for the trip down the Ord to Kununurra.  What an incredible journey. The scenery is spectacular.  We even went ashore for afternoon tea at an established spot, (toilets and all) built and maintained by the boat company.  Just beautiful, as was the sunset as we got nearer to town.  Had a rest day and then we headed out to the Hoochery Distillery where Des imbibed in a few rum and liqueur tastings.  I had a small taste.  The shop is an old machinery shed and much of the interior  built of recycled timbers and they have done a sterling job. A couple of purchases and we were off to see the Ivanhoe Crossing.  This is a causeway across the Lower Ord River and was, we understand, the original route to Katherine.  The crossing was closed and in spite of there being a salt water croc warning there, we saw a bloke in knee deep raging water fishing over the spillway.  We thought that was incredible.  The Ord Irrigation Scheme, created by Lake Argyle, is very large.  They are opening another 8000 acres this year.  A lot of it is planted with sandalwood bushes.  They are expecting to mill the first plantings next year.  A long term return on capital.  Hope you enjoy this blog.

some of the captivating mountain scenery between Halls Creek and Kununurra.  A great change from the flat country to the west.

How about this for a Tonka Toy.  These massive road trains run day and night between Wyndham and the mines SW of Kununurra.

"Wouldn't you think he'd use an axe?"  Our first campfire for months.

The view from the back of the van overlooking Lake Kununurra.  So peaceful here.

This is the swimming hole at the end of Emma Gorge.  Well worth the walk in, even though it was challenging.

This is Zebedee Springs on El Questro Wilderness Park.  33deg most of the time.  Lots of people enjoying the spring water.

Lunch and dinner area at El Questro caravan park and shop.

The natural swimming pool at the back of accommodation at El Questro.

Downstream of the pool (above) the Pentecost River would rage through here during the wet season.

The black rock in the foreground is where the water spills over into the deep waterhole at the Grotto.  There are man-made steps going to the bottom, but no protective handrail, and a 60mtr drop straight down.  Didn't have the nerve to go down.

View from the Five Rivers lookout at Wyndham.  It's such a shame it was so smoky.

Wyndham township from the Five Rivers lookout.

Durack homestead near Lake Argyle.

The new infinity pool at the shop and van park at Lake Agryle.  The views from here were truly amazing.

Part of Lake Argyle near the dam wall.  The concrete structure is the intake pump for the hydro station below the wall.  Note the size of the boat on the right hand side of the lake.

Boats moured in the backwater of Lake Argyle.  A beautiful spot.

The hydro power station below the dam wall.  Check out the bus on the roadway across the wall.

Our afternoon tea stop on the river cruise.  Amazing how they have managed to build these facilities here. 

wanted to show how insignificant this spot is to the surrounding mountains

Ord River cruise

Sunset on Ord R. cruise

Hoochery Rum distillery at Kununurra.  We had a good time at the tastings.  A really unique setting inside which was very hard to capture on our camera.

Ord River Rum logo

The causeway across the Lower Ord River at Ivanhoe Crossing.  The bloke fishing was in knee deep water.  I don't know how he didn't get washed over.  This place must be an unbelievable sight during the wet season.

A very small part of the Ord River Irrigation plantations.  Smallcrops in the foreground,  sandalwood in the background before the mountains.  Can you see the irrigation pipes in the foreground channel.