kathndes: Kalbarri to Carnarvon

KALBARRI TO CARNARVON.

On our way north from Kalbarri we called in to see more closely some of the gorges we had experienced from the air. One has its own beach along the more accessible side of the river. Good roads into these sites allow a lot of tourists to experience the size of the gorge here. Our next call-in spot was Hamelin Pool - an area of the Shark Bay Marine Park where they have strange formations called “stromatolites” growing in the shallow water. These living organisms are over 3500 million years old and are responsible for giving off oxygen. A great viewing platform allows people to walk out over the water and get great views of this fascinating marine growth. (Pictures do not do them justice). This spot was also where a telegraph station and post office were housed to help telecommunications in the 1800’s. The beach at this spot has a compressed shell grit quarry where they use a circular saw to cut blocks from the hard shell grit to build with. We decided not to go out to Monkey Mia as we had seen dolphins up close and personal in Bunbury so we headed north again. We spent three nights at the beach where an old town called Gladstone once stood. Now it’s just a bush camp controlled by a Ranger. Very nice spot, and the wind wasn’t too bad either. You needed a boat or net to fish here as the shallows go out for quite a distance. We were given some mullet from a couple of groups who netted while we were there. Very nice to eat freshly caught fish. A small ridge a few klms up the road gave us sweeping views of the country. Everywhere else is dead flat. We arrived at Carnarvon on April 4th, a couple of days before Easter. The weather turned hot over Easter and we had 5 or 6 days of 37deg temps with humidity. It was horrible so our ability to sightsee was limited to midday. Maximum temps. aren’t reached till about 3.30 - 4.00pm (or later some days) so we spent many afternoons in the van with the airconditioner running. Carnarvon is not a very big town but has 4 van parks and lots of accommodation places as people have to use it as a half-way stop to anywhere. (I suggest you look on a map and you will see what we mean) We will be here two weeks in the hope the weather cools a bit as we will have several free camp nights between here and Karratha (750k). and nothing in between. Beside the highway coming in stands a large Overseas Telecommunication Commission dish, opened in 1966. It was a NASA tracking station and played a part when man went to the moon in 1969. This area is mainly known for its food production. Over 1000 hectares of cultivated land on the fertile flats of the Gasgoyne River producing bananas, table grapes, stone fruits, melons, mangoes and a large variety of vegetables. This river is known as “the upside-down river” in that the sand is on the top and the water underneath. They pump from the aquifer for irrigation of the crops. We saw it with water in it, but the water is too salty to use until it filters down into the aquifer. They supply a huge percentage of WA’s food. We toured a plantation called “Bumbaks”. This is the family name, shortened from their original “slovack” surname. A very informative tour. We are two weeks early for the local markets. The town has a One Mile Jetty built in 1897, along which runs a small tram. We did the tourist thing and took the tram ride to the end of the Jetty. It is still in the process of being restored, at a cost of $2500 for each pylon. Well worth the exercise, however. Once again about 75km nth east from here at a place called Pt.Quobba we experience more tributes to the HMAS SydneyII. It was directly off the coast here where she sank. Some of the survivors of the HSK Kormoran came ashore at Pt Quobba, we will never understand how as the cliffs there are enormous. Fishermen harness themselves to a steel spike in the rocks so as not to be swept over the edge. This is the only place in Australia where you can game fish from the shore and where the desert meets the ocean. Also at Pt. Quobba is a terrific blowhole. The ocean was quite flat the day we went but the blowhole was still spectacular. Would be incredible with wild seas. The water is forces into underground caves and forced out the hole further ashore. People have died at this site and when you watch the stupidity of some people, even in the calm conditions, you can understand how. This is also a popular fishing spot. The “Shanty Town” appearance of the place is truly incredible. The council has tried to close these buildings down, but there was a backlash, and so far, they still stand. We do not know how families live in these places for holidays. Des has done some fishing at the pier in town, but no good. Next major stop will be Karratha. Hope you enjoy this blog.

Hawk Head Gorge just north of Kalbarri

Graham's lookout at Kalbarri Nat. Park. Note the sandy beach on the right.

Compressed shell quarry at Hamelin Bay.

Stromatolites growing in shallow water at Hamelin Bay near Monkey Mia.

Old Telegraph building at Hamelin Bay.

This was our campsite at the coast at Gladstone. It is low tide.

The view from our van door at Gladstone beach at high tide.

Sunset at Gladstone beach

OTC Satelite dish at Carnarvon.

This memorial sign is on Quobba Station about 60k nth of Carnarvon.

HMAS SydneyII Memorial cairn on the coast at Quobba Station. This is where the HKS Kormoran survivors reportedly came ashore.

Plaque at HMAS SydneyII cairn on Quobba Station.

The rugged coastline near Pt. Quobba

It's about 60m to the water but the photo doesn't do it justice. This is where fishermen harness themselves to a steel ring on the rocks behind this bloke.