Kalbarri to Carnarvon

KALBARRI TO CARNARVON.

On our way north from Kalbarri we called in to see more closely some of the gorges we had experienced from the air. One has its own beach along the more accessible side of the river. Good roads into these sites allow a lot of tourists to experience the size of the gorge here. Our next call-in spot was Hamelin Pool - an area of the Shark Bay Marine Park where they have strange formations called “stromatolites” growing in the shallow water. These living organisms are over 3500 million years old and are responsible for giving off oxygen. A great viewing platform allows people to walk out over the water and get great views of this fascinating marine growth. (Pictures do not do them justice). This spot was also where a telegraph station and post office were housed to help telecommunications in the 1800’s. The beach at this spot has a compressed shell grit quarry where they use a circular saw to cut blocks from the hard shell grit to build with. We decided not to go out to Monkey Mia as we had seen dolphins up close and personal in Bunbury so we headed north again. We spent three nights at the beach where an old town called Gladstone once stood. Now it’s just a bush camp controlled by a Ranger. Very nice spot, and the wind wasn’t too bad either. You needed a boat or net to fish here as the shallows go out for quite a distance. We were given some mullet from a couple of groups who netted while we were there. Very nice to eat freshly caught fish. A small ridge a few klms up the road gave us sweeping views of the country. Everywhere else is dead flat. We arrived at Carnarvon on April 4th, a couple of days before Easter. The weather turned hot over Easter and we had 5 or 6 days of 37deg temps with humidity. It was horrible so our ability to sightsee was limited to midday. Maximum temps. aren’t reached till about 3.30 - 4.00pm (or later some days) so we spent many afternoons in the van with the airconditioner running. Carnarvon is not a very big town but has 4 van parks and lots of accommodation places as people have to use it as a half-way stop to anywhere. (I suggest you look on a map and you will see what we mean) We will be here two weeks in the hope the weather cools a bit as we will have several free camp nights between here and Karratha (750k). and nothing in between. Beside the highway coming in stands a large Overseas Telecommunication Commission dish, opened in 1966. It was a NASA tracking station and played a part when man went to the moon in 1969. This area is mainly known for its food production. Over 1000 hectares of cultivated land on the fertile flats of the Gasgoyne River producing bananas, table grapes, stone fruits, melons, mangoes and a large variety of vegetables. This river is known as “the upside-down river” in that the sand is on the top and the water underneath. They pump from the aquifer for irrigation of the crops. We saw it with water in it, but the water is too salty to use until it filters down into the aquifer. They supply a huge percentage of WA’s food. We toured a plantation called “Bumbaks”. This is the family name, shortened from their original “slovack” surname. A very informative tour. We are two weeks early for the local markets. The town has a One Mile Jetty built in 1897, along which runs a small tram. We did the tourist thing and took the tram ride to the end of the Jetty. It is still in the process of being restored, at a cost of $2500 for each pylon. Well worth the exercise, however. Once again about 75km nth east from here at a place called Pt.Quobba we experience more tributes to the HMAS SydneyII. It was directly off the coast here where she sank. Some of the survivors of the HSK Kormoran came ashore at Pt Quobba, we will never understand how as the cliffs there are enormous. Fishermen harness themselves to a steel spike in the rocks so as not to be swept over the edge. This is the only place in Australia where you can game fish from the shore and where the desert meets the ocean. Also at Pt. Quobba is a terrific blowhole. The ocean was quite flat the day we went but the blowhole was still spectacular. Would be incredible with wild seas. The water is forces into underground caves and forced out the hole further ashore. People have died at this site and when you watch the stupidity of some people, even in the calm conditions, you can understand how. This is also a popular fishing spot. The “Shanty Town” appearance of the place is truly incredible. The council has tried to close these buildings down, but there was a backlash, and so far, they still stand. We do not know how families live in these places for holidays. Des has done some fishing at the pier in town, but no good. Next major stop will be Karratha. Hope you enjoy this blog.

Hawk Head Gorge just north of Kalbarri

Graham's lookout at Kalbarri Nat. Park.  Note the sandy beach on the right.

Compressed shell quarry at Hamelin Bay.

Stromatolites growing in shallow water at Hamelin Bay near Monkey Mia.

Old Telegraph building at Hamelin Bay.

This was our campsite at the coast at Gladstone.  It is low tide.

The view from our van door at Gladstone beach at high tide.

Sunset at Gladstone beach

OTC Satelite dish at Carnarvon.

This memorial sign is on Quobba Station about 60k nth of Carnarvon.

HMAS SydneyII Memorial cairn on the coast at Quobba Station.  This is where the HKS Kormoran survivors reportedly came ashore.

Plaque at HMAS SydneyII cairn on Quobba Station.

The rugged coastline near Pt. Quobba

It's about 60m to the water but the photo doesn't do it justice.  This is where fishermen harness themselves to a steel ring on the rocks behind this bloke.

The blowhole at Pt Quobba

Part of the fishing shanty town at Pt. Quobba

The tram which runs along the One Mile Jetty at Carnarvon

"Yes", we took a ride in this thing

View of One Mile Jetty at Carnarvon from the end of the pier

Large Humpty Dumpty statue in one of the plantations at Carnarvon.  We have no idea of it's significance.

Gasgoyne River at Carnarvon bridge.  You usually do not see water in this river unless it has rained or it is in flood.

On the move again northward

PERTH TO KALBARRI 

After spending 3weeks at some friend’s property  just south of Perth, we set off again to head north.   It is still quite hot and we will be taking it slowly.  Our first stop was at the Pinnacles - where thousands of limestone pillars rise starkly from the desert sand.  These appeared as recently as a few hundred years ago and wind continually changes the face of this fascinating landscape.  The trip further up to coast was pleasant and we called into a few small towns one called Dongera where there was large numbers of fig trees in the streets and we overnighted at Jurien Bay - a lovely clean little town where they are doing great things along the foreshore to cope with increased numbers of visitors.  The small hamlet of Greenough just south of Geraldton, is a village frozen in time.  The National Trust maintains the restored heritage buildings. We travelled to Geraldton where we stayed a couple of nights with friends and visited the HMAS Sydney II memorial.  This commemorated the 645 servicemen who lost their lives when the ship was sunk by the HKS Kormorant, a German raider, during World War II.  Our photos show the dome containing 645 gulls (one for each sailor), the memorial wall, the Lady in Waiting and a pool showing the WA coast and a map of the War Grave site where the ship was found. We also visited St Francis Xavier Cathedral with it’s stained glass windows and it’s strange paint job inside.  On our way to Northampton we had Devonshire Tea and a tour of a haunted property called Oakabella Homestead. A quite fascinating house.  Our visit to Northampton was memorable because of the old convent and church buildings and the original railway station on the first line in WA. Just north is the Principality of Hutt River. This was declared in 1970 following a dispute with the WA Government over wheat quotas.  Since then it has been challenged in court by both WA and Fed. Govt and due to some astute legal argument by Prince Leonard the Principality is still in existence to this day, and will be for as long as his family line exists. (He really stuck it up both Governments).  Travelling north into Kalbarri gave us wonderful sights of the coastline.  The coast is very rugged near Kalbarri with cliffs 100m plus high (very like the Great Australian Bight).  We really liked Kalbarri and stayed 4 nights in the shaded van park a couple of minutes drive from the ocean. We decided to take the scenic flight over the cliffs and the gorges of the Murchison River.  The weather was beautiful and we could see forever. We also went to the Rainbow Jungle parrot centre, a bird park where they have hundreds of different types of parrots, from Aust and other countries.  Most of them are free flying as the place is very large and netted for the bird’s protection.  Some species are being bred to prevent their extinction.  The next section of highway is pretty barren and we plan to take a few days to get to Carnarvon where we will stay for two weeks in the hope that the weather will not be too hot further north.  Hope you enjoy this part of our journey.

Des demonstrating the size of the sandstone structures that make up the Pinnacles.

A small section of the Pinnacle desert

Sunset over Jurien Bay (haven't seen a decent sunset yet)

Heritage church at Greenough, south of Geraldton.  All the buildings are of similar construction.

HMAS SydneyII Memorial Dome at Geraldton.  The structure has 645 seagulls, each one touching another, forming the dome.  645 seamen were lost when HMAS SydneyII was sunk by a German surface raider in WWII in the ocean west of here.

Half of the Memorial wall listing alll those who died in HMAS Sydney II.

"Lady in Waiting" statue at HMAS Sydney II Memorial in Geraldton.  This woman represents all the women who looked to sea hoping and waiting to see their loved ones again.

The Memorial Pool at HMAS SydneyII memorial in Geraldton.  Look carefully at the surrounds and you will see the 644 seagulls again (plus the large one in the middle marking the position of the ship making 645 altogether). The sandstone coloured area on the left represents the WA coastline around Geraldton. A very moving tribute to the men who died.

Geraldton Cathedral

Inside Geraldton Cathedral.  Note the ugly paintwork.  The entire inside of this Cathedral is painted in this striped pattern.  Some Light & Dark Grey and trims in Orange and Grey.  Never seen anything like it anywhere.  Not what you expect when you walk into a Cathedral.

This National Trust listed property is near Northampton, nth of Geraldton.  This grainstore was an amazing structure.  The station is called "Oakabella".  As you can see, the country is in dire need of rain.

Old Northampton Station.  This was the first railway line built in WA.

Roman Catholic Convent in the main street of Northampton.

Hutt River Province Prince Leonard and Princess Shirley.  Hutt River seceeded from Australia in early 1970's.  We missed seeing Prince Leonard on our visit.

The welcome booth on Hutt River Province.  They also have their own Government office building and Post Office.  Look how dry and barren this property is today.

"No knees knocking here".  This is the  plane in which we took a flight over the gorges and cliffs of Kalbarri.  Truly memorable.

Aerial view of one of the Kalbarri gorges

The Murchison River Gorge near Kalbarri

Cliffs on the coastline at Kalbarri about 300ft (100m) high

NO!!  He's not at the controls. 

View of Kalbarri Cliffs from the air

Kalbarri Cliffs

Called "Natural Bridge".  This rock shape is just south of Kalbarri on the coastline cliffs

Princess Parrots in the parrot enclosure at Kalbarri.

Kalbarri parrot enclosure