Coast around Esperance

From Esperance we travelled east to the small town of Condingup where we stayed at the local recreation ground for a couple of nights.  On our first day we travelled out to Cape Arid National Park about 80kl east and did a nice walk in the bush.  The views, once again,were quite spectacular.  We had a meal one night in the local tavern at Condingup and while talking to the landlord, he related the story of how the pub was built from local rock quarried by hand, so that the rock-face wasn't damaged, from the family property.  After wet weather, the outside walls still grow lichen.  The dining tables, bar tops and chairs have been made from a driftwood log found almost burried on the local beach and since been proved to have come from South America.  The log was so huge that it was slabbed on the beach and transported to the pub.  The furniture was manufactured by a local craftsman and is simply beautiful.  Another trip took us to Orleans Bay and a fabulous beach, according to the locals, it has been voted best beach in Australia.  From Condingup we went to Cape Le Grand National Park for 3 nights.  Did another long beach and bush walk and were visited by the resident kangaroo and her joey.  This NP has several terrific beaches and bays and is very popular with visitors from Esperance.  A fully sealed road gives good access.  Moved on from here back to Esperance for general housekeeping and resupplies and travelled NW to a small beach at Manglinup.  Once again the wild WA weather found us and,execpt for one night, we were almost blown away.  And AGAIN the flies almost carried us off.  We have taken to wearing our fly veils over our hats almost constantly.  It's a real good look.  From here we will be heading NW for new adventures. 





view from lookout on our bushwalk Cape Arid NP





view from campground Cape Arid NP.  The banksia in foreground grow wild




Wharton Beach - Orleans Bay- Condingup



view of Little Wharton Beach from lookout at Orleans Bay



Wharton Beach from way up a lookout at Orleans Bay




looking in the opposite direction to previous photo



stone wall interior of Tavern at Condingup



view of Tavern at Condingup



slabbed dining table and chairs from driftwood tree



the wild one with the wildlife at Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand NP




Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand NP.  Campsite to the right hand side of the beach



Nullarbor to Esperance

After we left the Nullarbor roadhouse we were able to turn off to see the Great Australian Bight and the Southern Ocean for the first time. (It is so blue here) It is truly a spectacular sight and we got some good photos.  We were able to go to the coastline a few times before crossing into West Australia.  At Eucla, the first town in WA, you come down off the plateau to the plains.  This was a strange section of the trip as you have the ridge (the height of the cliffs) off to the right of you.  Some travellers have been very creative along here and used the dead trees to make a theme. Some were covered in teddy bears, some in thongs, some in bras and the one we photoed was a  soft toy theme. They were very amusing. There are several places where the Royal Flying Doctor can land on the highway.  At Madura we started to photograph the 18 hole golf course now crossing the Nullarbor, from Ceduna to Kalgoorlie.  The tee off area is usually near the roadhouse, but the fairway and the greens are something else.  You golfers will really appreciate this.  Once again, at Madura, you come up a pass on to the plateau again.  At Cocklebiddy we saw the funniest signboard, which we will share with you later.  And then you come to the longest piece of straight road in the world, or so they reckon.  146km without a single bend.  At the golf tee at Balladonia we asked a lady to pose for us teeing off into the bush.  You will appreciate the way they have marked the green.  We were lucky to get a tailwind all the way to Norseman.  End of the Nullarbor crossing and, YES!!, we did not see one camel. We were now experiencing the summer. 35deg at lunchtime.  Such a shock from what we had two days prior.  So we had to make do with the galvanised iron ones in the roundabout in Norseman.  Norseman is very small, but they have a large gold mine right on the town doorstep.  We went up the lookout and were surprised by the gypsum lakes surrounding the place.  One is very large and is a gypsum mine. There's a large pile of  goldmine tailings 40mtrs high and covering 12 hectacres. We moved on to a small town south of Norseman called Salmon Gums for a couple of nights.  Population about 45, but the van park was great for $10 per night.  The town gets its name from the beautiful trees growing for kms around.  A thunderstorm eased the heat the second night, and the following morning was quite cool AGAIN.  We headed off for Esperance - bloody hell - talk about winter winds.  There had been quite a lot of rain here and the wind again was from the deep south.  Can't get used to the changes.  Esperance is very pretty.  The ocean is sooooooooo blue.  The main street is lined with huge pine trees.  Did a bit of sightseeing, replenished our supplies and had the car serviced.  Tomorrow we are off east to see some National Parks.  Photos to follow.



our first view of the cliffs at the Great Australian Bight & southern ocean



looking south at 2nd road to the cliffs



looking north from same spot above




looking south, note how the cliffs are not here but appear further down the way




themed tree




one of our bush campsites crossing the Nullarbor




golf tee at Madura, can you spot the flag on the green




this description goes with the tee above




going up the Madura Pass



amusing sign at Cocklebiddy roadhouse



this says it all




on she goes - forever



teeing off at Balladonia roadhouse



this hole
 named after the piece of Skylab which fell to earth nearby




same hole, spot the green



tin camels at Norseman (only ones around)



gypsum mine in the distance




tailings dump at Norseman goldmine




historic village at Esperance



Esperance harbour



West Bay from Esperance lookout




Esperance from Rotary lookout




Des dwarfed by the huge pine tree lining Esperance main street







Crossing the Nullarbor 1

wheat fields west of Ceduna - goes forever

beachfront at Fowlers Bay, west of Ceduna



eastern boundary Nullarbor Plains




Des showing Kathy the camel (probably the only one to be seen)




view from caravan, can you spot the dingo?




evening storm over the Nullarbor



sunset in storm cloud on Nullarbor



morning after the wild storms (Ha! Ha!).  Flat for as far as you can see

 After leaving Port Augusta we headed for Iron Knob.  This is a pretty desolate place, but the mining site was pretty impressive.  We didn't take the trip into town but we saw the old abandoned mining operations.  Didn't stop for a photo which was a mistake. Had an overnight stay at the tiny town of Kimba where the local Lions Club have set up a fabulous free camping facility.  Has flush toilets, free bbq, camp kitchen, water and two shaded pagolas and was well off the highway.  All they ask is you spend some money in the town.  Next morning off to Ceduna.  Acres and acres of wheat fields along this stretch, and beyond.  Collected our mail at Ceduna, refuelled at the Mobil roadhouse and asked if we could park down the back of the truck parking area for the night. $3 for a shower, everything else free.  Didn't know there was also a train line about one hundred metres away, bit of a noisy night, but not too bad (the trains had to sound the whistle right next to us before they could cross the highway).  Ear plugs worked well for some. Out of Ceduna next morning, more acres of wheat, and took a side trip to Fowlers Bay.  A very quiet, but popular spot for fishing.  The beach was completely covered with sea weed to a depth of about 2 mtrs - you would think they could find a use for it.  Not much of a beach by Queensland standards.  Stopped at the Nundroo Roadhouse for a magnum and a lady told us to fuel up there as it was 40cents a ltr dearer at Nullarbor Roadhouse - 140klm down the road.  We checked out prices when we got to Nullarbor, and it was!  So all they got from us was $2 each for a shower.  We were surprised how hilly this section of the road to the beginning of the plains was.  Still waiting to see the camel which they display on many signs.  The Nullarbor looks really great, lots of greenery and some water lying beside the road.  The vegetation is only about 1mtr high here but will let you know when that changes.  We camped at a truck stop 2klm east of the Nullarbor roadhouse where we were greeted by the local male dingo who showed no signs of being frightened of us, staying within about 50mtrs of us.  This morning when we looked out, he was about 10mtrs from the van and just wandered off.  A thunder storm came through early evening, followed by our friend, the howling gale, which persisted all night, rocking the van.  We decided to stay here for the day rather than drive into a very strong head wind. (not good for fuel consumption). This morning we had 2 or 3 thunder storms pass through.  (Not what we would call a thunder storm - 3 or 4 thunder noises and 50 spits of rain).  The flies are something else.  Thousands of them.  You daren't open your mouth outdoors.  Yesterday was the hottest day we have experienced - about 34deg.  and when the front came through last night, we were pleased - for a while.  Today, we have the ice in the wind AGAIN.  Everyone is complaining about the wet weather.  It must be nationwide. We plan to cross into Western Australia tomorrow, providing the wind eases.  Talk to you from the west.

Adelaide and beyond

The trip from Walkers Flat to Adelaide was great.  The country looks a million dollars.  We left our van at a small town in the Adelaide hills, Birdwood, and loaded our car with clothes, etc for a couple of weeks stay in Tea Tree Gully.  When we arrived at our friend's house our social life began immediately with an afternoon 13th birthday party for her grandson.  Monday did lots of washing and shopped for a while.  Our accommodation was 5 star with first class food laid on.  We were really spoilt with compulsory happy hours between 4pm and midnight most nights.  Kathy had to become the drunk police as Des and my friend tried to clear out the backlog of wines and spirits on hand.  God knows how many kilos we gained while in Adelaide, haven't been game to weigh yet.  Friday morning, we set off to take the ferry to Kangaroo Isl. to see Des's nephew and family. It was a pleasant weekend and the weather was kind to us for both crossings.  We went to see Les Miserables 25th anniversary concert movie on Tuesday evening.  It was fabulous.  Introduced Kathy's friend to Cold Rock Icecreamery.  What a mistake!!!   Wednesday we had to pack the car and sort out the mess we had in the house.  Too much space, living in a house!!  After a sad goodbye Thursday morning we left and picked up the van and it took us 1 1/2 hours to repack the car and van.  Headed off to the Yorke Peninsular to meet up with some people we first met in Cloncurry 3 yrs ago.  The country is loaded with grain and straw bales between Adelaide and Wallaroo.  We spent a cold and wet Frid., Sat and Sun with our friends, but had a lot of laughs and heaps of fun.  The weather kept us in the van most of the weekend. It was appalling.   Left Monday morning and overnighted just north of Port Pirie (still windy as hell).  Travelled to Port Augusta to enjoy the Melbourne Cup in the local club (didn't win a cent) and will start our westward journey tomorrow.  Sorry we don't have photos this time.  Will make up for it on the next blog.